The bolo tie is back. Not quietly, but loudly. From Pharrell Williams’ Louis Vuitton runway shows to the Cowboy Carter tour concerts, from Zara window displays to artisan jewelry shops in Scandinavia, this accessory born in New Mexico in the 1940s has become one of the most photographed pieces of contemporary western style.
Check out our complete guide: Western accessories: belt, buckle and cowboy jewelry.
(Find all our tips in our complete guide to cowboy boots styling.)This comeback isn’t random. The bolo tie answers something a necktie and a classic necklace don’t: it’s both formal and distinctive, dressed-up and personal. It says “I made a choice” in a way more standardized accessories just can’t.
A quick history of the bolo tie
The bolo tie was born in 1940s New Mexico, credited to the Navajo artist Slender Maiden and silversmith Victor Cedarstaff. It’s made of a leather (or metal) cord held by a sliding medallion. It has been the official neckwear of Arizona, New Mexico, and Texas since the 1970s.
Its earliest wearers were cowboys, Native American silversmiths, and Texas politicians. It has resurfaced in fashion several times, in the 80s (Kate Bush, Patrick Swayze in Dirty Dancing), in the 90s (grunge and alternative rock), and massively since 2022 with the western revival.
How women wear the bolo tie in 2026
Women have reinvented the bolo tie far more freely than men. They don’t wear it only with a western shirt anymore, they pair it with pieces where it historically was never expected.
Over an open shirt
This is the most straightforward way to wear it. An open-collar shirt (top button undone), the bolo tie centered on your neckline. The cord hangs freely, the medallion sits around sternum height.
What to wear it with : jeans, wide-leg jeans, straight-leg pants. This works from casual to smart-casual.
Over a turtleneck
Over a thin turtleneck, wear the bolo tie on top of the knit. The medallion sits on the turtleneck, not at the base of your neck. It’s a more sculptural look, super effective in fall and winter.
What to wear it with : slim jeans, tailored pants, a midi skirt. Turtleneck + bolo tie is one of the most modern pairings in contemporary western style.
With a collared dress
A shirt-collar dress or a soft V-neck dress with a bolo tie placed on top creates a very western-chic look. In this context, the bolo replaces a necklace.
As a statement necklace
Away from any shirt or collar, some people simply wear the bolo tie like a necklace on a low neckline. The cord hangs against the skin, the medallion is centered. It’s the most contemporary way to wear it, the furthest from traditional western, and often the boldest.
How men wear the bolo tie in 2026
For men, the bolo tie is still worn in a more structured way, but the situations where you can wear it have expanded.
With a suit
Refer to our article on suits + boots: the bolo tie is the natural alternative to a necktie in a formal western setting. On a white or blue shirt, collar closed, under a suit jacket. The medallion should sit mid-chest.
With a western shirt
On a western shirt (pointed collar, snap buttons), the bolo tie is worn with the collar closed or slightly open. This is the most authentic option and the most faithful to tradition.
With a henley or a heavy tee
For a more relaxed vibe, a bolo tie over a henley (notched placket tee) or a crew-neck heavyweight t-shirt creates a rock-western look that really works. The cord hangs over the fabric and the medallion stands out.
Casual with a denim jacket
Bolo tie over a simple shirt + denim jacket: an easy city-western look that doesn’t require any specific western context.
Choosing the medallion: different styles
The medallion is the heart of the bolo tie. It defines its identity.
Turquoise and silver : the classic Navajo medallion, the most authentic. It comes from a Native American craft tradition that goes back centuries. It works in every setting, from formal to casual.
Skull : the ultimate western-rock medallion. It’s more assertive, darker. With black boots and a monochrome look, it speaks the language of dark western.
Eagle : strong symbolism. The eagle is an iconic animal in the American western tradition. It works in more statement looks.
Horn or bone medallion : a natural material that brings a boho, handcrafted feel. Less common, rarer.
Leather medallion : the most minimal. A disk or simple shape in engraved leather. For looks where you want the accessory without the big statement.
Geometric silver : for modern, minimalist looks. A square, oval, or triangular shape in matte silver fits into any contemporary setting.
Length and how to adjust it
The ideal bolo tie length depends on the context.
Short (medallion above the chest) : the most formal way to wear it. The medallion sits close to the neck and the cord creates a clean shape.
Medium (medallion mid-chest) : the most versatile. It works from casual to formal.
Long (medallion toward the navel) : the most relaxed, sometimes the most rock. It needs a top layer (jacket, vest) so it doesn’t look too loose.
How to adjust : most modern bolo ties have an adjustable slider. Move the medallion up for a formal look, lower it for a more relaxed one.
To discover all the western accessories that complete a look, check out our guide: Western accessories: belt, buckle and cowboy jewelry.
Check out our selection of Shop our cowboy boots → for women and men, with a variety of medallions to match every style.
Also read
To go further on this topic, you can also read:
